INNOVATION July-August 2014

Left: Climbing the northeast ridge at 8,600 m after the southern route was closed for the season. Below: Chamgoulov at the summit.

The two-month-long expedition required a lot of supplies—food, fuel, tents, as well as many mountaineering tools such as crampons, an ice-axe, pickets, ice-screws and ropes—all of which he had to carry. “Most importantly, though,” says Chamgoulov, “The climber needs to be strong, with solid mountaineering skills and good judgment in order to succeed.” The climb is traditionally preceded in Tibet by a Puja prayer ritual performed by Lama to spiritually bless the expedition. A usual day during the acclimatization period consists of climbing and hiking up the mountain while carrying the loads. “At an eleva- tion of 6,000 and 7,000 metres, this isn’t an easy thing to do. So after five to seven days of climbing, I’d take one day to rest. “It’s a very difficult mountain—the highest in the world. It was really a once-in-a-life- time opportunity,” continues Chamgoulov. “It’s been my dream for many years.” He notes that without the support from his sponsors, the feat wouldn’t have been possible. The Journey Continues Chamgoulov says this is not the end of his climbing career. Though ambiguous when asked about what the future has in store, he does say that he has a climb planned for next year. He hints that K2, the second-highest mountain on Earth after Mt. Everest, may be his ninth, which he hopes to complete in 2016. To view Chamgoulov’s blog and read about his adventure, visit his website at 8summits.com.

The 7 Summits North America: Mt. Denali/McKinley, 20,320 ft Climbed May 2004 South America: Mt. Aconcagua, 22,841 ft Climbed March 2005

Europe:

Mt. Elbrus, 18,540 ft Climbed September 2005

Antarctica: Vinson Massif, 16,067 ft Climbed December 2005 Australia: Mt. Kosciuszko, 7,130 ft Climbed May 2006 Africa: Mt. Kilimanjaro, 19 , 340 ft Climbed December 2007

Asia:

Mt. Everest, 29,035 ft Climbed May 2014

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